Grand Teton

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Grand Teton National Park is about 5 miles south of Yellowstone NP. The two are separated by the John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway. Rockefeller was instrumental in preserving Teton from development, buying then donating to the government over 32,000 acres of land.

Essentially the park is a north-south strip about 35 miles long and 15 miles wide. The western half is the Teton Range, which has peaks up to about 14,000ft with glaciers. This is only accessible by various walking tracks. The eastern half is the flat valley of Snake River, the southern section of which is known as Jackson Hole. Between the two are lakes, the largest of which is Jackson Lake, which has been enlarged slightly by a dam.

Click the button to go to a map of the park, which will open in separate window.

Grand Teton NP map

We had two half-days in the Park - the afternoon we left Yellowstone, and then the next morning before we carried on to Lander. Our diary continues:

Sunday 5 June

Came south into Grand Teton NP - there was no entrance site here, presumably because you can effectively only have come from Yellowstone NP and therefore would already have a permit. Nice views coming down alongside Jackson Lake and we got to Colter Bay Village about 2.45pm. Went to Visitor Centre where we got a decent map and advice on the scenic loop drive. Went to Cabin Office but our room wasn’t ready so set off on the circular drive.

Numerous photo ops, including Jackson Lake Dam. Tried to go to Jenny Lake Lodge as by this time, 3.30pm, we wanted a drink. Seems they only do lunch and dinner so we carried on down Jenny Lake Drive to the Visitor Centre and grabbed an apple juice. Walked to the boat dock - think we might do the shuttle boat tomorrow if time allows.

Carried on south and immediately came across a wildlife hold-up - there was a moose with a 6-day old calf. Lots of nice photos before a local warned us that the moose’s behaviour was indicating stress so we retired to the car.

Again carried on south with load of photo stops for the mountains. Unfortunately by this time the mountains were due west of us and the sun was going down so photographs were difficult. At the bottom of the loop we crossed the Snake River near the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Centre and had another wildlife stop for a moose feeding at the riverside below the bridge. Spoke to an Englishman from Norfolk. Interesting story about shutting keys in rental car - rental company opened the car by satellite - spooky.

Turned north on the main 26/89/191 and a fairly quick run back. Stopped at Oxbow Bend turnout - well known wildlife viewing centre but nothing about.

Back to Colter Bay Village by 6.15pm. Cabin now ready - very basic - no aircon, no TV, no wi-fi, no coffee and no iron!! Sorted ourselves out, downloaded photos and went to restaurant for meal. Decided to go to posh bit rather than cafe. Had got our beers and ordered our food when a couple sat down at the next table - talking to the waitress they showed her photos they’d just taken of a grizzly and three cubs at the entrance to the Village. Everybody came to look at the photos. We started talking to them and discovered that she was Norwegian and he was Swiss. After a short while we suggested they join us at our table and we had a delightful evening talking to them. They had met while both working on cruise ships and had worked all over the world in catering and hotel management, including London. They now live in Florida with a holiday home in Norway. We exchanged details and as he had his 3G iPad with him we showed him our website so that they could look at our travels. Hope to keep in touch.

Drove back to cabin via office (where wi-fi is available), checked email etc, then came back to cabin to write up the day.

Monday 6 June

Very cold in the night. Couldn’t put heating on as it was very noisy. Les went to the loo in the middle of the night and looked out of the window. Even from this limited view the stars were stunning. Don’t know why we didn’t notice when we came back in from dinner - probably too many lights still on. Got up and showered very quickly as the room slowly warmed up. Got packed but then decided to go down and buy coffee to have with our bananas. Got to the General Store at 7.50 to find it didn’t open until 8am. Went to restaurant instead - didn’t bother with buffet - Anne had fried egg on toast and Les had scrambled egg and sausages with toast.

Finally set off about 8.45am heading back for the Signal Mountain Road. Couldn’t resist stopping for a few repeat photos at Willow Flat Overlook where we saw a yellow-headed blackbird picking the flies off the front of the cars as they parked. Had to take repeat photos as the sun was now directly on the Tetons instead of being behind them as it was yesterday afternoon. Jackson Lake look stunning at the dam, as it was completely still and there were terrific reflections.

The drive up Signal Mountain Road wasn’t as bad as the guide books suggested - wide enough for cars to pass everywhere, although we did have to stop for an RV coming down - although these are supposed to be forbidden. Views at the top were good along Jackson Hole, but it was actually impossible to get shots of the Tetons which was what we’d expected. Still, at least we hadn’t left our memory cards behind like the couple we talked to and who took our photo.

Down again and onto Jenny Lake Visitor Centre via the main road rather than the scenic drive. Bought a coffee each walked with it to the Boat Dock. Only had to wait a few minutes for the boat but talked to one of the staff who said he really wanted to live in New Zealand after spending some time there. He loved the idea of being close to the mountains and the ocean. From the way he drove our boat a few minutes later he should happily find work driving the white water rafts and jet boats on the Shotover River. The boat trip was short - the boats are actually there to ferry people across to Inspiration Point where they can begin a number of walks. We stayed on and came straight back. There was a one hour scenic and educational cruise leaving just as we returned which would’ve been nice if we’d had the time.

We drove back up to Jackson Lake Junction, then south to Moran, then south east down the 26 to leave the Park.

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