Wednesday 31st – Portland to Garibaldi, via Astoria - Click here for map

Up quite early after another fitful night. Same routine of Les getting breakfast from the boulangerie while Anne started packing. The most difficult part of the morning was waiting for the lift to get down from the 8th floor. We (and the other hotel guests) realised that only one of the three lifts was working. Eventually we had to get into it on its way up in order to get a space. Having left the hotel we walked up to Pioneer Square. Luckily all the traffic lights were with us and we crossed all the junctions without stopping and a train arrived as soon as we got to the stop. We were at the airport by 9.30 so we decided to have a coffee before we picked up the car.

Car rental seems to get simpler all the time. We’d entered all our details on line and it probably took us no more than two minutes to sign a couple of pieces of paper and then get the car. It’s a Hyundai Santa Fe much like our own and the biggest problem we had was working out how to use the stand-alone satnav that we’d rented.

Driving out of Portland was really simple as we were straight onto I-5 from the airport. As planned we went north and then turned east on the WA-4 along the north of the Columbia River, and then onto the WA-401 so that we could join the US-101 and cross back over via the Megler to Astoria bridge - very impressive. Before reaching the bridge we stopped at a diner for a fishburger lunch and sat outside as by this time there was some sun. The weather after that wasn’t very good. It was dull and looked permanently as though it was about to start raining, so we skipped the planned visit to climb the Astoria Column and carried on down the coast.

Went into Ecola State Park to see the famous view of the Haystacks Rock. The ranger told us that we should be able to get a National Parks pass in Cannon Beach so we called in there next, but couldn’t find anywhere that sold one. Carried on down the coast stopping at various places. We went onto Arcadia Beach but just as we did so the rain started again so we went back to the car and restricted ourselves to stopping at several of the numerous overlooks.

Stopped just before Garibaldi to pick up some fruit for breakfast and a large pack of bottled water. Got to Garibaldi about 5pm. The Harborview Inn and RV Park is very nice. The motel is small but the rooms are very thoughtfully decorated and fitted out with everything we need. We took the chance to reorganise our luggage so that it’s easier to live out of the car for the next couple of weeks. We decided that as there is a laundry we might as well wash everything that we’d worn so far.  The wash cycle only took 25 minutes so we waited for that. We then put everything in the dryer and strolled across to one of the restaurants in the port area. The recommended one was closed so we went into Tollers and managed to eat before they closed at 7pm. Excellent value. Anne had a small serving of halibut and chips and Les had the special Wednesday night ‘All You Can Eat’ cod and chips. Part way through Les sent a message to the chef telling him he could close down the fryer and go home as there was no way he was going to have any more than was already put on his plate In fact he didn’t manage to finish that.

Had a stroll round the edge of the harbour afterwards and were back in our room by 7.30. Les discovered he’d made a pocket call to Joyce & Bruce and had a voice message from Bruce who we’d obviously woken up about 3am. We sent an email to Graham asking him to pass on our grovelling apologies.

Thursday 1st June – Garibaldi to North Bend

A better night’s sleep. Still woke early as we’d been settling down to sleep around 9.30pm. It had obviously rained a lot in the night as the ground outside was awash with puddles and it was still drizzling. Had our breakfast of a banana and a pastry that we bought yesterday. Sent Linda a birthday message about 7.15am but of course most of her day in the UK was gone by then.

We were on the road by 9am. Carried on down the US-101 through Bay City to Tillamook where we turned west towards the coast. We had intended to go up to Cape Meares alongside Tillamook Bay and then continue on the scenic drive down the coast. However we missed the turn off and realised after a while that we were still on the OR-131 going towards Netarts. We took a side road that took us up to Oceanside where we stopped for a few pictures and a coffee. We also bought stamps in what must be one of America’s smallest post offices. Carried on out of Oceanside heading north up to Cape Meares, When we reached the turn off for the State Park and Lighthouse we found that the road we had intended to come on from Tillamook was closed. Perhaps that’s why there were no signs for it in Tillamook itself.

Spent some time looking at the views and walking down to the lighthouse and back and then set off back down the same road to Oceanside and then onto Netarts and down the Three Capes Scenic Drive which hugs the coast at this point while the US-101 goes inland.

We carried on until we got to Pacific City. We parked in a car park at Cape Kiwanda but in fact it’s possible to drive onto the beach at this point. There was a large brewery/pub on the beach but instead we went to a tiny coffee shop opposite which did excellent veggie food. They even sold Fentimans Ginger Beer.

After lunch we carried on down the coast back on the US-101. It would be pointless to try to list all the points at which we stopped. The road seems to be either going alongside fantastic beaches or climbing up over rocky headlands, although there are some ordinary areas of pasture, etc at some points. Quite a few typical sprawling towns but on the whole this is a delightful drive. There are lots of state parks along the coast and areas of national forest as well. We stopped at one of the latter at Cape Perpetua.  We were talking to a volunteer ranger about the whales. Apparently it’s quite common to see them here either as they make their way up the coast or ones that are here all year. It’s a matter of chance whether you see one and of course we haven’t yet. His wife was working with him and it turned out that she originated in Essex, so we were able to enlighten her husband about Essex Girl jokes.

Despite our estimated arrival time getting later and later we just couldn’t help stopping for ‘just one more’ photo at various places. It’s worth noting that despite the phenomenally hilly nature of the road this is the designated Oregon coast cycle route and we saw lots of them. They must all have been doing the whole long distance trip since, without exception, they all had panniers with large amounts of luggage. At one stop Les talked to a lone cyclist who turned out to have come over from NZ for the ride. He saw Les’s Canon and gave Les his own one so that he could pose with his bike. Les was thrilled as it was probably the most expensive camera he’ll ever use for a serious photo.

Finally got to the Quality Inn in North Bend about 5.45pm. Checked in and sorted ourselves out very quickly and started looking for dinner. Trip Advisor suggested an Italian that was very close by so we drove straight there.  As we drove passed we were convinced it was closed but decided to park and walk back. This was fortunate because it was actually only their coffee shop that was closed and the main restaurant was open. A really nice place and we had an excellent meal. Anne had some simple pasta and Les had a pork dish with real vegetables - mashed potato, kale and peas. A pleasant relief from chips, and food that was a good as you would find anywhere. Back to the hotel to download photos etc. Have taken to listening to Classic FM through the iPad as there is absolutely nothing worth watching on TV. Worth noting that we’d also had our hopes dashed about radio in the car. It’s fitted with XM radio but obviously Alamo are too tight-fisted to pay the subscription so in the absence of anything on the radio we’ve plugged in a memory stick of our own music.

Friday 2nd June – North Bend to Crescent City

Slept well. Up and down to breakfast reasonably early. First time we’ve had breakfast included. It was ok but nothing special.

Set off from North Bend into Coos Bay, then turned off the US-101 onto the Cape Arago Highway  to Charleston and then down to Cape Arago. Spent some time on a beach taking photos and then moved round slightly further south to a look out at the top of cliffs. There were some volunteers here from an education foundation. They have telescopes available so that you can see the seals and sea lions on the rocks below. Spent quite a long time talking to a volunteer about the animals. In the middle of this Les noticed that they had suddenly rushed off the beach in two distinct packs like herds of sheep. The only things left on the beach were 3 or 4 elephant seals who obviously weren’t going to move for anything. It was as if the animals had all panicked. The volunteer said that this happens very occasionally but they have no idea why. He even broke off from talking to us to film it so it must be fairly unusual behaviour.

The end of the cape was about 400 yards on from this point. We hadn’t appreciated that the road ended there (or actually became a dirt track which is now closed). We had to retrace our steps towards Charleston and then take the Seven Devils Drive across the countryside to rejoin the US-101 going south. The road runs right on the coast from here and the views alternate between fantastic wide beaches with huge offshore rocks and large hills with some amazing bridges and cuttings created by the road builders.

We made our way down as far as Bandon where on the advice of the man at Cape Agaro we went to see Coquille Point. We then back tracked into Bandon Town Centre and had lunch in a splendid small cafe on the waterfront - salmon sandwiches. On our drive down the coast we’d noticed that most of the beaches were littered with driftwood - mainly huge tree trunks. We were sad to read at Bandon in March a 14 year old girl had been killed when an occasional exceptionally large wave, had thrown one of these tree trunks on top of her as she was at the edge of the water. We now realise why at all the beaches etc there are warnings about these waves.

Carried on through the suburbs of Bandon seeing some fantastic properties until we got back onto the US-101. After that it was a case of trying to balance the need to cover a lot of miles with the natural inclination to stop at every viewpoint and take photos. Mainly it’s all the same - fantastic beaches with various size rocks just offshore, but they are all really attractive. Finally made it to the State border with California where, to our surprise there is actually a customs style checkpoint. We were waved through without stopping. Much to our disgust once in California we realised that their state taxes on fuel must be very high as the average price of petrol went up from $2.70 to $3.40. We missed our chance!

Found the hotel in Crescent City very easily as it’s right on the US-101. Check in was very simple and we came up to our room on the 3rd floor. When we stepped in we were amazed. The room is at least 12m long. As well as the usual twin Queen beds it has two full sized settees and an armchair. It’s definitely the largest hotel room we’ve every stayed in. The sink unit is 3m long. Sorted out our luggage and went straight across to a restaurant at the end of the parking lot. We could see on the side that it was advertising fish & chips. We weren’t quite ready for more chips and batter but we went in anyway. It’s called The Apple Peddler and is one of a small chain of 5 family owned restaurants in the area. Very much diner style but nice food and good service from very obliging staff. Anne was able to have a simple omelette whilst Les had grilled snapper Cajun style with a jacket potato and vegetables! Anne is ok with the bottled beers but nobody seems to stock sparkling mineral water but Les is getting used to the idea that staff are happy to serve you simple iced water which always appears on the table by default anyway. Back to the room after a nice meal. Whilst downloading photos we noticed that the cameras were out of sync as Anne’s wasn’t set for the local daylight saving.

Should add that the weather had gradually improved through the day. It had been cloudy when we set off but we could see blue sky in the distance and it gradually got warmer and sunnier, justifying Les’s decision to wear shorts. Unfortunately he didn’t bother with the suncream and by the end of the day his face was quite red.

This is the end of our trip down the coast. Tomorrow we head inland for Crater Lake.